How to connect a light bulb voltage indicator on the input?
But to trace when the light appears, except to go out and switch the machines every ten minutes, it is not possible, which is a very problematic moment, all the more to miss the moment the light turns on means excess gas mileage, which is not a cheap pleasure.
So, is it interesting whether it is possible to somehow install a lamp on the input wire that will be forced to connect to the network (for example, a toggle switch) when there is no electric energy and light up when it appears on the wire.? I can’t think out a scheme; I need professional advice. Thank you in advance.
Do you have a single-phase input and generator? In general, the connection of the generator is done using a cross over switch, but I only met three-phase switches.
In order not to worry that the lamp will be constantly connected to the network (if without a toggle switch) and so as not to put any other wires on the upper terminals of the machine, in addition to the incoming wire - you can add 1 machine after the input. Well general. That is, an opening automaton (always on), an indicator lamp and a general automaton for the house are connected from it, which you turn off when the generator is turned on (how you do it now with an opening automaton).
If it’s not entirely clear, this is due to the fact that I don’t know how exactly your switchboard is arranged and how you switch the machines when the generator is turned on / off.
There is such a product as a “din rail indicator lamp”. It is designed to indicate the presence of voltage in any circuit. You can see for yourself to choose the right one, it is installed directly in the electrical panel on the din rail next to the machines. An example of such a light bulb: EKF LS47. IEK has the same name - they are not particularly different from many other manufacturers. Just take the neon or LED indicator lamps, since the Legrand ones with incandescent lamps quickly fail, according to the experience of one of my comrades. The bulbs themselves in these devices are interchangeable, just like the “glass”, you can put other colors. It is connected as an ordinary light bulb.
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Thanks, I understood everything, very clearly explained! Just a question, if you put an indicator between two machines (input and secondary) without a toggle switch, does this mean that the light will always be on?
We connect the generator through the socket in the shield.
I’ll send a shield now.
Yes, the input is single-phase, and I honestly don’t know the generator.
Yes, it will always be on if there is voltage at the input. Yes, if the generator simply has a regular socket - single-phase. What kind of machines X and H? D - is this a HOUSE? Which ones do you switch? I believe that you disable the sealed.
X and H are connected from the lower terminals of the machine "D" ??? If everything is so, then to the upper terminals of the automaton D (since it is common, I repeat, if I disassembled everything correctly) just connect the light bulb.
If you need to turn it off, add a button or switch to the gap of one wire to the bulb.
I understand that you turn off the one that is sealed? If you do with an additional machine, it turns out that from the counter
X - household building
N - water pump
D is the house
From the machine, the House phase goes to the machines X and H, and the neutral to the bus, from which then to all other points.
We turn off both the machine and the introductory and D. (House just disconnect for safety)
In the upper terminals D of the machine ... I understood everything, and I will do it thanks)
And you can not turn it off, I understand?
And if you can tell me, is a safe combination of machines in the shield? or something else needs to be supplied or replaced. And just do not really distinguish RCD from Difavtomat? They said that the ouzo is small and they are not responsible for short-circuit and overload ... Maybe we are not worth it?
Well, it turns out, if you turn off the input one, then you will no longer get the voltage from the network to the circuit. But if you connect to the upper terminals of the D machine, the problem is that you do not need to disconnect the input, since the light will not light up - it is powered from the input.
It turns out that you need to turn off the machine D, and leave the introductory on. Since X and H are powered from D and the neutral bus is connected to it, this will de-energize the whole house.
And if you kill the machine with constant on and off, then replacing D is easier than the introductory one.
For short-circuit and overload AND LEAK - Difomatomats are responsible, RCD is only for LEAK. That’s the whole difference. Those. either an RCD + machine, or a difavtomat. As for security - they don’t put more than 16A on sockets, you have 32A on the whole house, i.e. the socket will already melt, and the machine will not work yet. Well, as if this requires reworking the wiring and breaking it down into at least two groups (or more) - sockets and lighting separately.
p.s. I don’t understand. Is it an automaton or an RCD? (the marking is poorly visible, but it seems that it is an RCD (if I see the marking “VD1-63” correctly). If so, then I would replace it with a difavtomat, although in your case this is not necessary, since it has a regular automaton (introductory) above it.
Thank. Yes, the properties are clear, but so far it’s impossible to visually distinguish.
Yes, indeed, the marking is such.
It is strange that it is the input circuit that works for short circuits ...
Could this be?
So for good, instead of the second, you need a 16A difavtomat? And he will not be constantly cut down?
It turns out everything that stands in the shield inside the house does not make any sense? and the fact that it is divided into groups there, etc ... It is a pity that I have not found your site before ((
This is called selectivity of protection, when the machine only works on the line where the problem occurred. In "home" electrical panels this is difficult to achieve and often everything as you say - the introductory one works instead of the group one.
About what to put on 16A, you are not quite right. I did not see your shield inside the house. As I understand it, you attached it in another question, where there are a lot of single-pole machines from IEK? If so, then you have everything divided into groups, I, unfortunately, did not see the denominations, but I assume that everything is fine.
And another small question), from our automatic machine House, a SIP goes directly to the House, which directly connects the Introductory Cabinet and the Lighting Shield (located in the house), but is connected to it in the lower terminals via a wire going to the X and H machines and to the neutral bus ( as I wrote above), the question is: is it not very bad, that there are two wires in one terminal and that there are different metals? SIP probably aluminum and VVG copper. Thanks again for the help)
To be honest in the photo, I did not see where the SIP goes from D. And the fact that different metals is very bad.You need to at least tin the copper ends on X and H with a soldering iron (cover with tin), or use the tips.
Thank you, we will do so.